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Smart Choice Credit Services

 

We highly recommend Credit-Repair-Union if you are looking for a company to handle the entire process for you. They have a proven track record of getting their clients results, they are fully automated all in one company, they assign a lawyer to personally assist you and they are affordable. You can visit their website at www.credit-repair-union.com

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Can I really fix my credit?

Of course you can! Many of our readers (even yours truly) have cleared up a few blemishes on their reports. And by the way: everything a credit repair clinic can do for you, you can do for yourself at little or no cost. That being said, we know that sometimes people feel overwhelmed with the process and want to ask a live person a question if they get stumped. If you do, you can set up a paid consultation with one of our counselors for a small fee.

Make sure you also read our article, "The 5 Biggest Mistakes People Make in Credit Repair".

What the information provided in this page does is help you fix ERRORS on your credit report and clean up those "questionable" items. While no one can legally remove accurate negative information from a credit report, the law does allow you to request an investigation of information in your file that you dispute as inaccurate or incomplete. On the other hand, *nudge* *nudge*, *wink* *wink*, it is perfectly legal to challenge ANYTHING on your credit report. There is no charge for requesting an investigation. The whole key to the credit repair procedure is that if the credit bureaus cannot verify information on your credit report they must remove it. For instance, if a credit bureau cannot contact a collection agency which is reporting a collection on your report, they cannot verify the information, and the credit bureau must delete the entry. Let's meet Mike.

 

Mike’s Story

mike story to come soon but he did use credit-repair-union

 

Basic Credit Repair Strategy

You can do this yourself or pay a great company like credit repair union to do it for you for a small monthly fee.

 

The basic strategy to repairing your credit is as follows:

  1. Get and review your credit report.
  2. Analyze your report.
  3. Make a list of all items you consider to be questionable or negative. Clearly identify each item in your report that you dispute, explain why you dispute the information,
  4. Write a dispute letter bureaus.
  5. Send the letter to the credit bureaus. Make sure you send it registered or certified mail.
  6. Document your efforts.Record when you sent your letters, and the results.
  7. Wait for the bureaus to investigate your claims.
  8. Analyze the results.
  9. Repeat.
  10. Specialized techniquesWas the item deleted or changed to your satisfaction? You may continue steps 1, 2 and 3 above until you feel the dispute is settled satisfactorily. Remember, there is no charge for a reinvestigation. If you don’t get the results you want, dispute the listing again.
  11. Free Sample Letters
  12. What if a removed negative item comes back on my credit report?
  13. What if I get stuck and need help?
  14. Results
  15. Feeling overwhelmed by this process and think you don't have the time? You do!

That's all there is to it. Seems easy enough but you must have patience, because the credit bureaus are not always very cooperative. They make their money by providing credit reports to lenders not by fixing bad information in their databases.

 

1. Get your credit report.

To obtain free copies of your report, please see Getting and reading your credit report. Please note: when you get a free report, you are not going to see your credit score, which is a crucial tool in getting your credit in shape. Here is a comparison chart of online credit score purchase options.

Mike ordered his credit report and scores from Experian, TransUnion, and Equifax for $34.95. Note: this service also came with a credit report monitoring service which he used during his credit repair efforts to monitor his progress.

2. Analyze your credit report.

You can analyze your credit as outlined in "Decoding Your Report".

Once paying for his credit reports & scores online, Mike downloaded his report and saved it to his computer. Mike used the free credit report analyzer which came with his credit report order to figure out which items on his report were damaging. After reviewing his credit reports, printed out his report then highlighted everything he saw as a negative listing along with what the computer analysis pointed out. Most of them were medical collections, and were easy to spot. However, he does notice that one of the bureaus is reporting him as late on a payment to one of his credit cards, and he knows he paid it on time.

In addition, Mike has read that as part of the new FACTA legislation to protect consumers from identity theft, he was supposed to have been notified of the negative mark. He is sure he was never notified.

 

3. Rank questionable/negative items

Step 2 covered how to identify items, both positive and negative on your credit report. Now you have this list, you should rank each item according to the amount of damage they are doing to your overall credit picture. Rank the most damaging information first, followed by the next most damaging information, followed by those items which are neutral. Do this for each credit report, as remember, they may not all have the same information on them. They may even have duplicate information. If this is the case, you will need to write to each credit agency individually for each duplicate item.

The items here are listed in order of descending importance with the first item being the "most damaging" to your credit.

  • Bankruptcy
  • Foreclosure
  • Repossession
  • Loan Default
  • Court Judgments
  • Collections
  • Past due payments
  • Late Payments
  • Credit Rejections
  • Credit Inquiries

Also, if your creditor has NOT notified you of negative information they have recently placed on your credit report, they are currently in violation of the Fair Credit Reporting Act. You can use this to pressure the original creditor to remove the listing by reminding them they are in violation of the FCRA by not notifying you.

 

4. Requesting Corrections and Disputing Your Credit

What should you challenge?

Everything, and you should always shoot for a complete deletion. In your initial challenge, don't dispute the information within a collection listing, charge-off, court record, repossession, foreclosure, or settled account. Save disputing the information within the listing for the NEXT ROUND OF DISPUTES. Start off the reason for your dispute on a negative listing whenever possible as "not mine". For a list of the most common dispute reasons, go here.

What items are the toughest to get off your report?

You will have the toughest time getting bankruptcies, judgments, child support and foreclosures off of your credit report as these things are so easy for the credit bureaus to verify electronically through e-Oscar. In the case of a bankruptcy, you most likely will have a few trade lines saying "included in Bankruptcy". If you want to challenge your bankruptcy, you need to clear off all credit lines mentioning a BK FIRST.

Mike decided to challenge each and every one of his collections, as well as his credit card late payment. He wrote a letter to each of the credit reporting agencies that:

  • listed each of his negative listings by name, collection agency and amount of the delinquency
  • Under each of the list accounts, he said he was disputing the accuracy.
  • He also included his Name, SSN, Address, and a copy of his driver's license.
  • Mike sent his letters via Express Mail, which gives him a receipt for the mailing, and guarantees delivery. Total expense for Express Mail: $36.
  • Here is an example credit dispute letter.

 

5. Make sure you send everything registered or certified mail.

This is important, as you must be able to tell when letters were sent and received. It gives you some leverage with the CRAs if they don't respond in the time frame required by law. For certified mail tips and tricks, read this. DON'T USE THE ONLINE DISPUTING SERVICE PROVIDED BY THE CREDIT BUREAUS. You need to be documenting everything, and you want to make sure that you have a complete record of your disputes.

 

6. Document Your Credit Repair Efforts

As soon as you have ordered your credit reports and photocopied your order letters and checks, you must create a precise organizational system to track your correspondences with the credit bureaus and your creditors. Why is this necessary? Unfortunately, credit items you have worked so hard to remove mysteriously reappear. If this happens, it is usually easy to have the items deleted permanently if you show your complete records on the first removal. Why take a chance? As you proceed through these steps, keep copies and records of all correspondence you send and receive. Copies of all correspondence are a must, as well as notes on all telephone conversations! Also, if you should encounter any special difficulty and would like help in repairing your credit, you will need these records to proceed.

Every time you have a telephone conversation with a creditor, you must document the conversation by recording the name of the person to whom you spoke, his or her position, the date and time of the conversation, what was said in the conversation, and what was agreed upon.

 

7. Wait for the credit bureau to finishing investigating

Once the credit reporting agency has received your dispute letter, they are obligated to investigate. This obligation is not contingent upon you having been denied credit. According to the Fair Credit Reporting Act, the credit bureaus must take the following steps:

  • The credit reporting agencies must resolve consumers' disputes within 30 days limit, unless you have used the services of annualcreditreport.com, then the bureaus can take up to 45 days.
  • In response to consumers' complaints that documentation in support of their disputes was disregarded, the credit bureaus have to consider and transmit to the furnisher all relevant evidence submitted by the consumer the first time.
  • Consumers will receive written notice of the results of the investigation within five days of its completion, including a copy of the amended credit file if it changed based on the dispute.
  • Once information is deleted from a credit file, the credit bureaus can not reinsert it unless the entity supplying the information certifies that the item is complete and accurate and the credit bureau notifies the consumer within five days.

The Federal Trade Commission says that inaccurate credit reports are the number-one source of consumer complaints, and that it is quite common for problems to take six or more months to be resolved. All of the big-three agencies are working on making sure that all disputes are handled within 30 days.

If the new investigation reveals an error, you may ask that a corrected version of the report be sent to anyone who received your report within the past six months. Job applicants can have corrected reports sent to anyone who received a report for employment purposes during the past two years. However, this is unlikely to repair any damage done when your credit report was first pulled, so don’t waste your time or energy on this approach.

 

8. Evaluate the results of your credit repair efforts.

You did save the original credit report your ordered, didn't you? And each item you challenged? Good, you will need them to evaluate how well you did. It’s all part of Step 5 above, documenting your efforts.

When you get your "repaired" credit report back from the credit bureaus, they will summarize what changed on your credit report due to your challenges. You can compare this list to your own notes or just to the previous credit report.

The results of each item will have been resolved in one of five different ways:

  1. If the listing is not mentioned in the results list, you must have forgotten to include it, or your request was not sufficiently clear. You will need to dispute the item again in your next dispute letter. The bureaus are legally obligated to respond in writing within 30 days, so if they don't, it is highly unlike they are ignoring you.
  2. The disputed item was investigated but verified.If you don’t get the item removed, most likely, the credit bureaus will have just given you a cryptic reason as to why like "item verified". We know the credit bureau has absolutely not ever talked to the information furnisher, but has used eOscar. The law required that the bureaus accept any proof you may submit, as well as to pass any documentation you provide on to your creditor for consideration, so be sure to send any documentation you can, if you didn’t do it the first time. I would also hit them up with the Method of Verification technique, which is going to force them to expose the fact that they are using eOscar. You could also try disputing the listing again at a future time. Who knows, you may get lucky, and a different employee of the creditor may not be able to verify the item. If the account does come back as "verified", I recommend trying this method immediately, Disputing Listing With Original Creditor method.
  3. The disputed listing was investigated as to the correctness of the information within the listing (such as late pay notations) and the listing was found to be inaccurate or unverifiable. Remember, if the creditor doesn't respond to the bureau at all, this is the same as the listing being unverifiable. In this case, the negative listing will now show up as a positive listing, or it will be deleted from your report all together. This is the best possible outcome.

 

9. Repeat your credit bureau dispute:

It's a good idea to keep disputing negative listings with the credit bureaus. If you hit on the right dispute, the listing could get completely removed from your report. For instance, if you dispute the date the account was opened, and the credit bureaus can not verify this information they may pull the whole listing. You will need to change the reason for the investigation so the credit bureau will have something new to investigate. The order of the reasons should be:

 

  1. Not mine (not my account)
  2. I didn't pay late that month
  3. Wrong amount
  4. Wrong account number
  5. Wrong original creditor
  6. Wrong Charge-off Date
  7. Wrong Date of Last Activity
  8. Wrong Balance
  9. Wrong Credit limit
  10. Wrong Status (there are about 20)
  11. Wrong High Credit (the highest amount you used)

For example, the first time you challenge a listing, you might say the account is "not mine." The second time through, you would say "never late."

 

10. Specialized techniques:

Depending on the type of listing, you may also want to try these separate techniques:

  • Collections - This is actually an easy type of listing to deal with. We recommend five different methods for removing collections.
  • Charge-offs. Try disputing the information within the listing, like the date the account was opened, the high balance, the amount owed, etc. If any of the information is incorrect, you have a good chance of getting the whole thing deleted off of your report. Also try the Disputing Listing With Original Creditor method of dispute.
  • Judgments. If you were never served for a judgment, you may have a chance of getting it vacated (voided), or there may be other technicalities that you can use. Check out our new section on how to do this.
  • Disputing directly with the credit card/mortgage company. If well-spread out disputes with the credit bureaus does not work - use our Disputing a listing with the Original Creditor method.

 

11. Free Sample Letters for Credit Repair

Sample Letter 1 - Initial letter to credit bureaus
Dispute Letter for follow on credit bureau correspondence
Removing inquiries
Complete List


12. What if a removed negative item comes back on my credit report?

Ok, you’ve removed a listing and are breathing a deep sigh of relief. Then you get a letter in the mail from a credit bureau telling you the item has been added back on. What happened?

Reverified listings

This is actually becoming more commonplace: since the new credit laws require that the bureaus investigate and resolve your disputes within 30 days, they will sometimes remove the negative information temporarily until they get the information verified as true. Then they will put back any information verified to be true and notify you of this. By law, they can do this, but they have to notify you in writing.

If they DO NOT notify you in writing, it is an instant violation of the FCRA with a $1000 file PAYABLE TO YOU. Many of our readers have had great success earning some easy cash by suing the credit bureaus for reinserted listings. Not only do you earn $1000, but that listing is removed from your report as well. Find out how!

13. What if I get stuck?

Are you stuck and have a quick question? Make an appointment to talk to one of our counselors. You may also visit our discussion boards free of charge.

 

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